Enchanted Island - Koh Samui, Thailand

Sunset cocktails on the sands of Haad Salad seemed like an ideal way to wrap up such an exhausting day. Fresh out of energy from all the swimming, snorkelling, beach strolling and eating that had preceded the liquid orange colours of dusk, we managed to find the will to order two caiprioskas and settle into our favourite corner on the deck of the shack style My Way beach bar, traditional Thai cushions firmly planted beneath our “weary” behinds.

The clear ocean waters lapped at the shore a few metres away as the sun made its descent over the headland, fishing boats gliding along like silent shadows on the horizon. How, we mused, were we going to bring ourselves to board that boat back to Koh Samui tomorrow, to catch our flight back to the reality of our fast-paced lives in Australia? Why not stay here forever, caught up in the slow-paced bliss of the Koh Phangan lifestyle? It is a scenario that we play out every year, and an idea that we never tire of toying with. As young and carefree backpackers with a penchant for the exotic, our favourite destination was the small island of Koh Phangan in the Gulf of Thailand well known on the backpacking travel circuit as somewhere to enjoy palm-fringed beaches and cheap and cheery beachside accommodation.

On our first visit, my partner and I arrived there with the plan to stay a week or two before moving on. Five months later, we were still swinging from hammocks on the deck of our $5 a night bungalow, lovingly called the Lazy Hut. That’s the problem with finding your own little paradise ... you never want to leave again. Fast track ten years from that first island love affair and Phangan has started to establish itself as a luxury holiday destination, whilst retaining that laidback, hippy atmosphere - the delightfully ramshackle bungalows and beach bars with their chill out decks and worn-out hammocks are still there, along with the backpackers seeking out the famous Koh Phangan Full Moon parties (not to mention the “Half Moon”, “No Moon” and “Shiva” or crescent moon parties ... any moon will do!). But many of those budget travellers who fell in love with the island have, like us, grown up, maybe married and had children of their own, and laid down roots in a modern world with all the trappings that come with it. Luxury had become our new ideal. With a stunning coastline circling the entire island, it isn’t difficult to find a beach where you can lose yourself completely to relaxation. Haad Salad on the quieter, north western coast was an old favourite of ours, with a crescent beach that comes straight out of a tropical fantasy. It is said to be the island’s original “Pirate’s Beach”, a place where seafaring bandits would come to hide their bounty, and there are still plenty of modern day “pirates” in the well informed travellers that come here to hide themselves away from big city life. The peace is tangible – it’s so laid-back one could easily wile away weeks and not notice time slipping by. The Green Papaya Resort on Haad Salad is one of the new wave of resorts catering to a more discerning clientele. With lush tropical gardens, infinity pool (including wading pool), massage and spa centre, wireless internet facilities, restaurant with daily buffet breakfast, and a beachside bar that couldn’t possibly get any closer to the water, Green Papaya has all the facilities and fancies for an indulgent stay without being so grandiose that it conflicts with the natural environment. We had the beach just steps from our cool and comfortable Deluxe Cottage, whilst inside it was spacious and contemporary cool, with a stylish air-conditioned bedroom with television, mini bar and lounge and a modern exotic bathroom with bath and a dreamy outdoor shower. A far cry from our humble beginnings in the Lazy Hut!

Massage can easily be an affordable daily occurrence for those visiting on Koh Phangan, and the Green Papaya Resort’s own Harmony Spa, set right on the beach and raised for peaceful water views, offers a whole menu of body and mind treatments (the traditional Thai massage is nothing short of heaven!). Or, if you would prefer your massage outdoors, simply take a stroll up the beach to the popular Salad Huts where you are sure to find the legendary Mr Mak who has a long-standing reputation for one of the best Thai-style massages to be found on the island.

Sunset is a special time of day on Koh Phangan, with a spectacular display of colour over the ocean guaranteed daily. Haad Salad caressed us every dusk with the silhouettes of coconut palms dotting the hills around the bay and the vivid tones of orange, pink, purple and yellow splashed across the horizon. The laughter of local kids playing soccer on the sand mingles with the sounds of the cicadas and frogs, and the echoes of singing fishermen bringing in their hauls makes it clear that this is the time to wind-down as if you hadn’t already! Quiet evenings can be played out at one of the many quaint beachside restaurants that dot the bay and nearby beaches, with their quintessential “chill out decks” the perfect place to sit and partake of some local fare. Dishes like spicy Kaprow (basil and chilli stir fry) and tasty fried fritters with the fabulously simple title of “No Names” can be washed down with cheap cold beer and, more commonly of late, imported wines - all with the languid sounds of reggae classics or tr’s chic lounge music playing in the background. Time spent on Koh Phangan is all about living the good life, with a good dose of peace and relaxation. There is little extravagance, but with resorts like Green Papaya there’s also no need any more to forsake holiday indulgence. The locals have a saying – “Sabaii Sabaii”, which roughly translates as “happy” or “enjoying life”. That could well be the most fitting motto for this idyllic island retreat. Koh Phangan has a certain magic to it, and one rarely escapes the island without falling under its enchanting spell.

(C) 2009 Holidays for Couples magazine
Words Natalie Peterson
Images Natalie Peterson and Green Papaya Resort